![]()
Category: Singapore
-
Day 39: Botanical Beauty
Contrary to yesterday, today was a pretty good day. Had a decent breakfast (including warm pain au chocolat š).
After breakfast I took myself off to Singaporeās Botanic Gardens. The gardens are 166 years old, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Asiaās ātop park attractionā (according to trip advisor).
Which makes it all the more satisfying that entrance to the majority of the gardens is free. You could spend several days here exploring all the different areas.
The one area that is chargeable is the National Orchid Garden. Even this is only S$15 (11ā¬, Ā£10), so less than half the price of the rubbish observation deck from yesterday.
And a million times more impressive.
Letās Talk About Orchids
When I was in school, we were told that an orchid was a flower, singular, and so rare that because weād never go to tropical South America, we would never see.
Orchids were described to us as some almost mythical plant that weād only see in textbooks.
Bull. Shit.
Of course, as I grew older I realised that orchids were a broad species and found all over the world. But still, learning about the numbers, distribution, growing and propagating methods, and the sheer variety of them was eye-opening.

Did you know:
- There are around 28,000 species of orchid.
- There are a kind of herb.
- Their seeds are microscopic, and donāt contain enough nutrients to germinate, requiring a symbiotic relationship with fungi to provide the necessary fuel.
- Vanilla extract comes from Vanilla planifolia, a species of orchid native to Mexico, Central America, Colombia, and Brazil.
And so on and so on. I took so many pictures Iāll put them all in a separate gallery.

Really, I could have spent more hours here than I did, taking photos of hundreds of different varieties that I didnāt know the name of.

Dendrobium Memoria Princess Diana
(seriously)However, a) my phone was dying in the heat (the chilly āCool Houseā was a blessed relief) and b) I had to find stamps.

Singapore Post
Singaporeās national postal service has the most ā1980ās C&A Skiwearā brand logo.

You can feel the shoulderpads. Since the MTR station was near a mall with a branch in it, I thought Iād try my luck with stamps there. They had a vending machine that had a couple of options and, seeing no other outlet, I tried it out.
Result: minus S$5.20 and plus zero stamps. The error message was in Chinese so after tapping every button on screen I gave up and went to the counter. āOh yeah. Youāll need to ask for a refund via this website [points to QR code],ā like this happens regularly.
āAnd we only print standard POS stamps here. You need to go to the GPO where they have a philatelic shop.ā
Off I traipse. And the GPO shop is rather nice. You browse the stamps, choose what ones you want and quaintly write down the codes on a piece of paper like youāre in Argos, and then someone fetches them from a cupboard.
I rather went overboard so I hope Iām not fuelling my motherās habit again. Maybe Iāll drip-feed them to her over a few months š
And Thatās Almost It š
Tomorrow morning I head back to Changi T3. There Iāll board a Singapore Airlines Airbus A380, and Iām not ashamed to say that that aircraft is part of the reason Iām even in Singapore.
I figured that airlines were phasing out usage of the A380 and really only Emirates and SingAir were still committed to them. Seems thereās been a post-pandemic revival in fortune and some are being brought back into service by (e.g.) Lufthansa.
Anyhoo, hereās my chance to fly this super-big-boy plane. And with wifi, so my last post for this trip may be from 10km straight up.

-
Day 38: High-Lying, Nerd
By any rational measure, Singapore should be a near-ideal city/state for me:
- Good, cheap public transport (including driverless underground trains where you can see right down the tunnel ahead).
- Spotlessly clean streets and gardens.
- Wide interplay of cultures and cuisines.
- English as one of their official languages.
And yet. Iām missing something. Maybe I just had a bad day.
I went to a ārecommendedā cafe for breakfast that turned out to be a Starbucks-like chain, and where my reheated sandwich was still partly chilled.
I took a bus and underground to Chinatown expecting to see some evidence of its historic past, but found a tourist market and some (nice) artwork.


The abundant gold leaf in the Buddhist temple felt a bit excessive next to the pleas for donations.


Everything felt like it was a bit sanitised and tourist-friendly. Except then I decided (against my initial instinct) to do a tourist-favourite attraction, the so-called SkyPark perched on top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel towers.
Roughly, the deck at the 56th floor looks like this, a slightly curved sweep across the three towers of the hotel.

And for S$35 (25ā¬, Ā£21) you can visit, well, a tiny part of that deck, on the right-hand-side here:

All the rest of it is either for hotel guests only (like the infinity pool, fair enough) or for other access uses like a restaurant. You get to explore an area about 30×20 metres. It all feels like a bit of a con. I eked out twenty minutes up there, half of which was trying to shelter from the intermittent rain.
It left a bad taste in my mouth and a general ambivalence toward any of the other attractions in the area (all costing similar sums).
Hawker Redemption
Itās not all bad though, by any means. I had a late lunch at a hawker place near my hotel.
(āWhatās a hawker place?ā I hear you ask. Basically, a food market, like an indoor market in the UK but mostly with small, independent food outlets.)
I dutifully ordered my food, waited for it to be prepared and then went to pay with card.
Oops. Only QR or cash.
I donāt have cash (didnāt think it necessary here), and QR only works for locals.
āItās OK,ā says the guy. āEat your food, then thereās a cash machine just over there. I can keep tabs on you because youāre so tall and also the only white guy around.ā
Thereās still a place for trust and honesty here š

-
Day 37: Singapore Fling
After another early start I was ridiculously early to the airport in Siem Reap for a short flight to Singapore.
Relatively few people on the flight, maybe 40% full. Somehow Iād landed first row, 1F so was on and off ahead of the crowd.
Terminal 4 at Singaporeās Changi airport is designed for low-cost airlines but has the look of a modern, high-class terminal. Even something as mundane as the baggage retrieval conveyors are a nice place to be.

The other novelty on entering Singapore is that (having completed your pre-arrival information online) you can swan through an automated immigration gate, never having to be interrogated by border agents. The downside is that you donāt get a stamp in your passport.
The Jewel
A cursory glance at Changi airportās website will quickly make obvious that itās not just an airport, itās a destination.
What this effectively means is that nestled between Terminals 1, 2 and 3 is a huge luxury shopping centre, and the centrepiece of the centre is the Rain Vortex. As āthe worldās tallest indoor waterfallā, up to about 40,000 litres of water per minute fall from the glass ceiling to the basement level. Itās undeniably impressive, but not something I spent much more than 10 minutes gawking at.

What I actually found more compelling was the Forest Valley areas, where thousands of shrubs and trees climb terraces around the waterfall.

The rest of the affair is rather pedestrian, just a luxury mall wrapping the fancy waterfall and gardens, and a few pricey tourist attractions mainly aimed at kids.
The Hotel Indigo
Finding a half-decent, reasonably-priced hotel with a window is not easy in Singapore. Only through a clever combination of my employerās corporate code and being an IHG member did I settle on the Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong. Itās really nice, and that membership thing got me a room upgrade, that looks out over the city from the floor-to-ceiling windows in the bathroom.


Gardens By The Bay
Another of Singaporeās top tourist attractions, I took a look in the evening after dinner. Again, there are paid attractions to visit, but wandering around is free and I was just in time for the twice a nightly āGarden Rhapsodyā which was a medley of opera classics booming while the huge metal trees (designed as ventilation for other buildings) swim in LEDs. Itās ever so slightly on the wrong side of classy.

Still, thereās more to see there so Iāll try to get back in the daytime and have a proper mooch about.

-

The plan.
It’s a six-week journey. Mostly in Vietnam, but jumping into Cambodia to see Angkor Wat and then finishing with a few days in Singapore.
This map gives an idea of my route. But all things are variable, I’m not too tightly tied to being in particular places and particular times ā except for flights, of course…
Red lines are flights. Blue lines are buses. Turquoise lines are trains. Pink lines are motorbikes.
I start in Hanoi, but get there via HCMC. Then I head to Ha Giang for the relatively well-known loop through the uplands there. Tet, the Vietnamese new year happens while Iām there so all bets may be off after that.
After a quick overnight in Hanoi Iām off to Hue, Da Nang and Hoi An.
From Da Nang Iāll pick up another motorbike and ride part of the Ho Chi Minh Road, up to Phong Nha (supposedly the best biking road in Vietnam).
Then reverse direction and go back on myself down to Kon Tum and Da Lat. Last part in Vietnam is to stay in HCMC for a few days.
A quick hop to Siem Reap to take in (and around) Angkor Wat, before rounding off things with a couple of days in Singapore.

Rough idea. Tap to enlarge. 
